The center of Nicaragua’s folk culture, Masaya (pop.75,000) is the spot for dancing, festivals, music and handicrafts. Some of the craftwork is produced in the city, but Masaya also serves as a market for goods produced elsewhere in the country. The Mercado de Artesanias should not be missed: In addition to exquisite paintings, jewelry, leatherwork and ceramics, the market offers hand-embroidered shirts, dresses and tapestries and musical instruments. The hammocks for sale there are the best in Central America - hand-knotted, very colorful and very inexpensive.

Masaya’s festivals are among the country’s most resplendent. In February, on the Sunday of Lazarus, a fiesta is held, highlighted by a parade. Beginning on 30 September, a weeklong festival honors the town’s patron saint.

To the west of Masaya is the Masaya Volcano National Park (Parque Nacional Volcan Masaya), which contains three cones: Masaya, Santiago and Nindiri. Santiago and Nindiri are still active, offering views of smoke and boiling mud. The park is closed from time to time if the activity becomes too great, so check ahead to be sure it’s open. A simple museum and nature center is located near the park entrance. It’s possible to tour some of the lava tubes if you get permission from the park staff. Lake Masaya, located inside the park, is the site of ancient petroglyphs and is home to a rare species of tree frog. Masaya is 20 mi/30 km southeast of Managua.