For a glimpse of Leon’s revolutionary spirit, visit the monument to the “Martyrs of the Revolution” across from the cathedral, which features a fascinating mural portraying the history of Nicaragua, from pre-Columbian times through the present. Additional colorful and thought-provoking murals are located throughout the city, as is pro-Sandinista graffiti.

The cathedral itself, located across from the central plaza, is the largest in Central America. It contains magnificent colonial religious art and the tombs of some of Nicaragua’s most famous citizens, including the poet Ruben Dario. The city has several other colonial churches as well, including some that date to the early 1600s.

Leon was the home of Dario, the Nicaraguan poet who was one of the most influential Spanish-language poets of the late 1800s and early 1900s. The Museo Ruben Dario is housed in his boyhood home and highlights his life and works. Cultural activities are frequent at the renovated municipal theater and at the Casa de Cultura, which has a permanent art collection.

One of the city’s greatest attractions is its spirited street life. Leon is one of the few places outside of Managua where mariachi bands and marimba players stroll the streets. Also, children often go door to door with 10-foot-tall puppets, reciting humorous poetry and beating on drums and trash-can covers. One fun way to observe the activity is to take a ride on the “topless bus” which cruises the city on warm nights. The cost is less than US$0.25, and it’s a nice way to get a feel for the city’s vibrancy. In January, the city hosts a Festival of the Arts.

The region north of Leon suffered heavy flooding and landslides when Hurricane Mitch struck: Check on road conditions if you’re traveling into that area. The principal town there is Chinandega, center of the country’s “cotton boom.” About 15 mi/24 km west of Leon is Poneloya, a beautiful Pacific-coast beach with some basic hotels and restaurants. Corinto, farther north on the coast, is Nicaragua’s busiest sea port. Leon is 40 mi/64 km northwest of Managua.