Physical Description

The Island of Ometepe is located in the southwest corner of Lake Nicaragua, about 10 km from the mainland port town of San Jorge in the department of Rivas. Lake Nicaragua is the tenth largest freshwater lake in the world and extends an immense 8265 km2. It is home to a vary rare species of freshwater shark and swordfish. Ometepe is the largest island within a freshwater lake in the world, with a total area of 276 km2 and approximately 35,000 inhabitants. The Island was created by the eruption of two volcanoes, Concepción and Maderas, during the fourth period of the Cenozoic era. The larger of the two volcanoes, Concepción, reaches a height of 1610m and is considered an active volcano; the last eruption occurred in 1957. Maderas, a dormant volcano, has an altitude of 1394m and is classified as tropical cloud forest. In its crater lays a small freshwater lagoon, which provides many of the surrounding communities with potable water via underground water sources. Both volcanoes host a variety of fauna including howler monkeys, white-faced monkey, deer, parrot, armadillo, and iguana, as well as diverse plant life. Also scattered throughout these forests are vast amounts of indigenous artifacts such as petroglyphs and pottery. Consequently, in October 1995, the National Assembly declared Ometepe a Natural Reserve and Cultural Patrimony.

Is located on the fringes of Concepcion Volcano on the northeast side of the island, about a kilometer inland from the coast. Altagracia has a population of approximately 2,500 and has a fairly well-established infrastructure including both primary and secondary schools, mayor's office, judicial office, public telephone (ENITEL, formerly TELCOR), Health Center (MINSA), Ministry of Environment and Natural Resources (MARENA), Minstry of Education (MED), Institute of Technology (INTA), Electric Company (ENEL) and several churches among others.

Transportation

There are three ways to get to the Island. A large cargo boat runs from Granada to Altagracia several times a week which takes about four hours. That same boat also runs from San Carlos to Altagracia twice a week which takes about 8 hours. The shortest and most reliable way to access the Island is through San Jorge, 4 km east of Rivas. Small passenger launches leave every few hours from San Jorge to Moyogalpa beginning at 9:00 am with the last boat leaving at 6:00 pm. Returning fron the Island, boat service is available from 6:00 am to 5:00 pm. Hydrofoils no longer run to the Island, although they do run directly from Granada to San Carlos. Due to frequent changes in the schedule and boat break-downs, it is advisable to call the port (ENAP) to confirm schedules (San Jorge: 0453-4617: Granada: 0552-4313; Moyogalpa: 0459-4109).

On the Island, there are buses that run about every two hours between Moyogalpa and Altagracia via the southern road around the volcano. Twice a day there is a bus that runs the same route via the northern road. Several times a day, there are buses that run between Altagracia and Balgüe (and during the dry season they enter as far as Punta Gorda), passing through Santo Domingo. There is currently one bus to Mérida a day leaving Altagracia in the afternoon and returning at 3:30 am the next morning.

Economy

The economy of the Island, like most areas of Nicaragua is based on agriculture. The main crop is plantains, followed by beans, rice, corn, watermelon, sesame, and coffee. Tobacco has recently been reintroduced to the Island as well. The planting and harvesting of these crops takes place almost entirely in the wet season (May - Nov), which is important to be aware of when organizing community projects that might interfere with this work.

Food

There is no central market but fruits, vegetables, and basic subsistence foods can be purchased at a variety of pulperias in town. The biggest two are located at Oscar Flores' and Cresencio's. On Fridays it is not uncommon for fruit and vegetable vendors from Managua or Masaya to set-up shop in front of the church for a few hours.

For a full service meal, there are actually quite a few restaurants to choose from Central Bar, Castillo and Astagalpa offer the most variety, with somewhat high prices. The Guayabito fritanga has less selection but provides decent, typical Nicaraguan food for a reasonable price. Bamboo Bar has great vegetarian dishes when they are serving food and delicious homemade yogurt with muesli. El Kiosko in the park has good finger food and drinks.

Lodging

Hotel Central is a nice, new hotel located right at the entrance to town. For C$30 you get a comfortable bed and common bathroom. There are also private cabañas available for C$50 per person. Food available (0552-6072).

Hospedaje Castillo has been around a little longer which makes it a little more popular with tourists C$30/night. Food available (0552-6045).

Bamboo Bar is owned by an "Intergalactic citizen" (Chele) named Sean who converted a house into a two-room hospedaje. It has a disco out back and a very different environment. Great food.

Work Activities and Contacts

My host agency was MARENA. The current delegate is Dulce Zuniga Morales and the secretary is Yelba Potoy. Yelba is an islander and is very helpful for not only work-related information but also for help in finding housing or orienting yourself with the community and other organizations on the island. (0552-6055).

My primary project was environment education. I worked in two elementary schools: the Rubén Darío in Altagracia and Koos Koster in La Sabana. I worked with several teachers, but the best ones to contact would be María Elena Martinez in the Rubén Darío and Leyla Viales Barrios in the Koos Koster. They are both motivated and industrious teachers.

Many of my projects were coordinated with the Mayor's office in Altagracia. The current mayor, Mario Ortiz, began his term in January 1997, and represents the Liberal Party. Another helpful and more accessible person at the mayor's office is Roberto Rosales (0552-6046).

There is an NGO on the island called the Fundación Entre Volcanoes. Their headquarters are located in Moyogalpa and they work on a variety of different projects dealing with environmental protection, health issues, women's issues, youth groups, etc. They also have an office in Santa Cruz on cerro Maderas. The directors are Martha Juarez and Luis Cerra. (0459-4118)

There is an association in Altagracia called Isla Hermanas that coordinates sister island projects between Ometeme and Bainbridge Island in Washington and the Gulf Islands in Canada. They primarily work on potable water projects in cerro Maderas, but they also do community health promoting. The director is Scott Renfro, a US American who has lived in Nicaragua for over 15 years, 7 of which have been on the Island. He is a great source of information on Anything. Rosario Paizano works for the Isla Hermanas and is also a good contact (0552-6087 tel and fax; community@uni.edu.ni).

Things To Do/Places To See On Omtepe

Lagoon of Maderas Volcano. The easiest way to get to the lagoon is via the Magdalena Co-op in Balgüe. Take the bus to Balgüe and ask anyone where Magdalena is and they'll point you in the right direction. It's about a 15 minutes walk up the volcano. From there, you can arrange for a guide (optional) or pay the passage fee for the trail up to the lagoon. There are also lots of petroglyphs (stone drawings) around the hacienda. Food and sleeping facilities are available. In the winter (May-Nov) the trail is very muddy and bajada (the part where you have to descend into the crater) will probably require a rope. Estimated climbing time: 6-7 hours.

Santo Domingo Beach. There are three hotels in Santo Domingo: Hotel Santo Domingo, Villa Paraíso (0453-3675) and Las Cabañas de Oscar Flores (0552-6072). To get there, take the bus that goes to Balgüe and get off in Santo Domingo. You can also walk from Altagracia along the main road or along the beach when the water is low enough (March-June). Start at Calaiza Beach (see "Local Beaches") and head south. You'll have to walk though someone's property to get around one of the rocky points. Enter at the cattle gate. Just yell "con permiso" when passing through people's yards.

La Isleta Grande (the Big Island). Believe it or not, someone farms this little island off the coast near Altagracia, so it's filled with plátano trees. There are great views of both volcanoes, but no sand and lots of insects. Go to San Silvestre (see "Local Beaches") and ask where you can hire someone to take you out there on their canoe. They should charge about C$10-C$15 for a few hours.

San Ramón Waterfall. This is one of the most beautiful spots on the island, but unfortunately there is a no public transportation to access it. If you want to go, you either have to contract a private vehicle or take the bus that goes to Balgüe and get off at Santa Cruz and walk to San Ramón (two hours). From there, it's about three hours up the volcano. Hitching is fine also, but very few vehicles use that road.

Concepción Volcano - The Crater. If you want to climb to the crater, be prepared - it's not an easy hike. It's best to go with a guide because it's easy to get lost. Bring lots of water and go on a clear day so you can enjoy the spectacular view. Most people climb via La Sabana, but Pull and a few other communities have trails too. Gloves, raincoat and long pants recommended. Estimated climbing time: 10 hours.

Other trails. There are also numerous trails to explore that don't go all the way to the crater, but offer amazing views of Lake Nicaragua, Maderas Volcano, the mainland and even Costa Rica. The best one is about a half hour from Altagracia. Take the bus to Moyogalpa via the southern route and get off in La Unión, a little town just southwest of Urbaite. Ask anyone to show you where the trail up into the volcano starts. You'll go through mostly farmland so remember when opening people's gates, saying "con permiso" never hurts if someone's around. Another trail to check out is in La Flor. Take the bus to Moyogalpa via the northern routes and get in La Flor.

Charco Verde (The Green Swamp). This is a nice place to visit and is renowned for its legends of Chico Largo. There is also a nice beach nearby in Venecia.

In and Around Altagracia

The Omotepe Museum. The museum offers a good history of the island and is a convenient way to orient yourself with the geography of the island. It also sells local arts and crafts.

Ceramic Workshop. Visit where they produce local ceramics. Learn how they prepare the clay, paint using natural dyes and fire the pots. They also have items for sale. Take the main road around the volcano via the north towards Pull. It's about 3 km out of Altagracia on the right-hand side of the road. You'll see a big white sign that says "PAMIC," or ask where don Narciso and dona Petrona live.

San Antonio. This is a beautiful walk through the forest among the volcanic rocks, known as a "peña". It ends at the cove beach of San Antonio. From the ceramic workshop, just follow the trail east.

Public Fiestas. About twice a month on Saturday nights, there are parties in the town hall (la pista). If you like dancing to Top-40 and Latin music and want to meet some locals, check it out. Alcohol is served.

Local Beaches

Tagüizapa: cove beach with patches of sand. Head east on the road from the Rubén Darío school and veer right at the fork (20 minutes).

Paso Real: close-by beach, nice to bathe in buy very rocky. From the plaza and baseball field, head east toward the port of Altagracia. You'll see a sign about 1/2 km down the road (10 minutes).

Piedracitas: very rocky beach. Head east on the road from the Rubén Darío school and veer left at the fork (15 minutes).

San Silvestre: rocky beach with good view of Maderas. Departure point for boat ride to Isleta Grande. From Hotel Central, head east on the road and veer left at the fork (30 minutes).

In and Around Moyogalpa

La Punta de Jesús Maria. This is a very nice beach with lots of sand. Offers excellent view of the sunset as well. Take any bus going from Moyogalpa to Altagracia via the south and get off in Esquipulas (ask driver to show you the entrance), or walk from Moyogalpa.

Altagracia, Isla de Ometepe
Heather Sears
September 1995-1997